没想到,疫情对职场穿着也产生了影响 Coronavirus canceled office clothing: These stores are in big trouble


疫情让许多人开启了在家办公的模式,一身睡衣可以穿半年,往日里天天见的西服套装和高跟鞋都被束之高阁。与此同时,卖正装的企业则迎来了“寒冬”,连布鲁克斯兄弟这样的大牌也申请了破产。

Photo by Ruthson Zimmerman on Unsplash


Kiss your sharply-tailored menswear, your sheath dresses and high heels goodbye.

和贴身剪裁的男装、紧身连衣裙和高跟鞋说再见吧。

sheath dresses: 紧身连衣裙

The new work-from-home reality has rapidly recalibrated the fashion code for professional wear, and that spells trouble for the retailers who sell formal office clothing.

在家工作的新现实已经迅速对职业装的时尚密码进行了重新调整,而这对于出售办公室正装的零售企业则意味着麻烦。

recalibrate [rɪ'kælɪbreɪt]: vt. 重新校准,再校准;重校准

On July 8, Brooks Brothers, the 202-year-old menswear retailer that has dressed 40 US presidents and is synonymous with the classic Wall Street banker look, filed for bankruptcy as demand for suits plummeted amid the pandemic.

疫情期间随着西装需求量剧减,7月8日拥有202年历史的男装零售企业布鲁克斯兄弟申请破产。布鲁克斯兄弟曾经为40位美国总统提供服装,是华尔街银行家经典装扮的代名词。

Meanwhile, Ascena Retail Group, which owns Ann Taylor and Lane Bryant apparel chains, told Bloomberg it's weighing all options to stay afloat after its business was hit hard by a pullback in clothing purchases, including officewear. Ascena is reportedly planning to shut at least 1,200 stores. It has 2,800 locations in the United States, Canada and Puerto Rico.

与此同时,拥有安·泰勒和莱恩·布赖恩特连锁服饰品牌的Ascena零售集团告诉彭博社说,在包括办公装在内的服装销售遭遇需求量减少的冲击后,集团正在权衡能免于亏损的所有选项。据称Ascena正计划关闭至少1200家门店。该集团在美国、加拿大和波多黎各有2800家门店。

pullback [ˈpʊlbæk]: n.(需求)减少

The turbulence has ensnared Men's Wearhouse, too. With more than 10 million men who've lost their jobs and millions more working from home in recent months, buying a suit is hardly a priority. Tailored Brands, which owns Men's Wearhouse, could be another retailer in the space mulling bankruptcy.

Men's Wearhouse品牌也难逃此劫。近几个月来逾千万男性失业,还有数百万男性在家工作,没有人着急买西装。拥有Men's Wearhouse品牌的服装零售商Tailored Brands也正在考虑申请破产。

With more work calls and team meetings now taking place from the comfort of home, office wear has become decidedly more relaxed. It's a shift that's been occurring for years.

如今随着更多的工作电话和团队会议在舒适的家中进行,办公装已经明显变得更加休闲化。这一变化从几年前就开始了。

The pandemic may have ended formality forever.

疫情可能会永远终结正装文化。

"The reality is that workwear trends have been shifting for a while now and sadly the pandemic was the final nail in the coffin," said Jessica Cadmus, a New York-based stylist whose clients mostly work in the finance industry.

纽约造型师杰西卡·卡德摩斯说:“事实上,工作装潮流发生改变已经有一段时间了,可悲的是,疫情成为了压死骆驼的最后一根稻草。”她的客户大多在金融行业工作。

Even prior to the national shutdown, Cadmus said her clients were gravitating to a more relaxed work look. "There was an enormous shift taking place towards business casual," she said.

卡德摩斯指出,甚至在全国封锁之前,她的客户已经开始转向更休闲的工作装。她说:“商务休闲装的风格正在发生巨变。”

Last year, Goldman Sachs announced that its employees could start dressing down for the office. The Wall Street firm has historically favored collared shirts and suits.

去年,高盛集团宣布,员工可以在办公室内着便装。历史上,这家华尔街公司一直偏好有领衬衫和西装。

"Then when Covid-19 hit and people were forced to work from home, there was an absolute halt in buying formal workwear," said Cadmus. "The emphasis from my clients now is on polished loungewear, where the fit is not as tailored and comfort is key."

卡德摩斯说:“当新冠疫情来袭,人们被迫在家工作后,突然就没有人购买正装了。现在我的客户看重的是优雅的家居服,无需贴身剪裁,舒适才是关键。”

Her male clients, she said, are looking for new shirts but not trousers. "They are not asking about sports coats, suits, or shoes. It's just shirts," she said. Women want statement necklaces, earrings and broaches instead of suits and dresses for a more put together look for video calls.

她指出,她的男性客户想购买新衬衫但不想买新裤子。她说:“他们不关心休闲外套、西服或鞋。他们只想买衬衫。女性客户想要的是能在视频会议上展示的醒目的项链、耳环和胸针而不是套装和裙子。”

Some people aren't even changing out of their pajamas. In June, 47% of consumers told market research firm NPD they are wearing the same clothes throughout most of their day while at home during the pandemic, and nearly a quarter said they liked wearing activewear, sleepwear, or loungewear most of the day.

有些人甚至一直穿着睡衣。六月份,47%的消费者告诉市场调研公司NPD集团称,疫情期间他们一天中的大部分时间都在家穿着同样的衣服;近四分之一的人表示,他们喜欢从早到晚地穿运动服、睡衣裤或家居服。

来源:CNN


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